Braised lamb shoulder with white beans
This dish is both festive and comforting:
Succulent, fork-tender (if not spoon-tender) meat and beans give it a homey
heartiness, while the complexity and intensity of the broth and the clean bright
kick from the gremolata constantly remind you that it's something special.
I served this at an informal family
reunion (brothers, sister-in-law, and a couple of friends) and everyone loved
it.
It served six with leftovers. A
side dish (kale) was superfluous. This is a full meal.
MEAT:lamb
shoulder — 3 lbs. (deboned, rolled up, and
tied)olive oil — 1/4
c(A note about the meat: I'd never
used this cut of meat before, but rock-star butcher Anthony at
Café Rouge Meat Market
set me up and I for one am glad he did.
Café Rouge, its thunderingly talented butchers, and its many meats will
definitely get their own entry sometime soon. That having been said, I doubt
that this particular preparation is going to be widely available outside really
top-notch butcher shops, so allow me to encourage those who can't find it to use
boneless leg
instead.)BROTH:onion
— 2 (sliced)leek — 2 (just the
white and pale green parts, sliced)carrot
— 2 (sliced)celery — 2
stalks (sliced)garlic — 3 cloves
(halved)red wine — 2
clow-sodium canned beef stock — 2
cbay — 2
leavestarragon — 1
bunchdried tomatoes — 2 T
(chopped)garlic — 1 head
(trimmed; oiled; wrapped in
foil)canned tomatoes — 28 oz.
cannelini — 3 14-oz cans
(drained)GREMOLATA:lemon
zest — 1 lemon's worthparsley —
1 bunch (just the top leaves, not the bottom
stems)garlic — 2
cloves1. Season the meat a day in
advance. Use 3/4 scant teaspoon of kosher salt per pound. Use your judgment with
the pepper. Refrigerate under plastic
wrap.2. Take the meat out and rub it
down with a paper towel; let it sit at room temperature for 1
hour.3. Heat the oil over medium heat
in and brown the lamb on all sides (this will take about half an hour in total).
Set aside in a large casserole or brazier (this is the cooking vessel for the
braising step).4. Spoon out some of
the accumulated fat, leaving behind any crystallization from the meat. Leave
about 1/4 cup of fat.5. Add the
vegetables, salt lightly, and cook for 10 min or so, until they have given off
liquid and gotten the barest amount of
color.6. Add the wine, stock, bay,
half of the tarragon and the dried tomatoes. Bring to a boil and cook off the
alcohol (about 10 min).7. Pour the
broth around the lamb, cover tightly with a lid or foil, and place in a
325°F oven for 2-3 hours. (I went
for three hours and it was totally fine.)
During the last hour, roast the head of
garlic.8. Carefully remove the lamb
from the broth and place on a baking pan or other oven-safe dish. Wrap with foil
and put back in the oven at "warm". Leave the roasted garlic head out to
cool.9. Strain the solids out of the
broth and discard.10. Combine the
strained broth and tomatoes (with their juice). Reduce until the flavors have
married and the broth has thickened somewhat
(Watch the saltiness; I stop when the
broth is salty enough for my taste, which means it's still quite
thin.)11.
Add the beans, the skinned cloves of roasted garlic (left whole), and the rest
of the tarragon. Heat through.12.
While the beans are warming up, make the gremolata: Combine the parsley, lemon
zest and garlic in a food processor, and pulse until combined.
13. Place the lamb on a cutting board,
untie the trussing string, and cut into six roughly equally sized
pieces:
(Equality
of portion size is a fantasy with the rolled shoulder; some pieces are just
going to be bigger than
others.)14.
Plate in restaurant-style pasta bowls: A generous slotted spoonful of beans,
tomatoes and garlic; a serving of lamb, a generous ladleful of broth, and a
couple of tablespoons of gremolata to top it all
off:
15. Serve with plenty of crusty bread
to sop up the remaining broth. Champagne not included but highly recommended to
sustain one's guests through the long waiting period before dinner that resulted
from one forgetting to start the meat on time. Your run-of-the-mill Huge
Red™ will serve admirably during the meal itself.
Posted: Thu - February 3, 2005 at 09:24 AM
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Published On: Jul 23, 2006 02:49 PM
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