Getting started	Cross Stitch	Embroidery stitches	Hardanger	Drawn Thread	Pulled thread

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Layout Traditionally, hardanger is worked with various thicknesses of thread, all the same color as the background fabric. The pattern is therefore based on differences in texture, and the shapes of the open spaces created by the stitches. The kloster blocks and satin stitches are usually worked in heavier thread, with the eyelets and other drawn thread work done in a lighter thread. Hardanger is based on stepped blocks; stitches are usually worked in diagonal passes. All thread bundles are covered in some manner. To add a buttonhole border around the design, all edges must have an odd number of kloster blocks (This example shows an even number of edging blocks). An "inverted" design can also be worked: a central area of fabric is edged with kloster blocks, and then kloster blocks are worked along the edges of an enclosing square (each block aligns with the blocks in the center design); threads are then removed between the center design and the enclosing frame, with the remaining thread bundles wrapped or woven.

Kloster blocks The basic structure of Hardanger patterns is the kloster blocks (groups of satin stitches) which secure the cut edges when threads are removed. Usually these are stitched in several journeys, each journey following a continuous diagonal zigzag. This keeps the stitches on the back aligned with those in front, and prevents accidental crossing of what will later be open spaces. To make larger open squares, extend the kloster blocks, using 5 longer stitches in the center of the square, and multiples of 4 stitches on each side. Usually threads are removed symmetrically, in groups of four. (No two adjacent groups are removed.)

Buttonhole stitch Buttonhole stitches are traditionally used for the outer edge of the pattern. These make a smooth and secure edge when the fabric is trimmed outside them, and can also be used in the kloster blocks. For framed works, the buttonhole stitches may be skipped, or may be done over fabric which is not trimmed, where they form a raised border. The diagram shows how to turn a corner.

Cutting threads To make an open square after the kloster blocks are done, first cut each thread to be removed half way between bounding stitches. Then unweave it to the boundary, and lift it away from the first remaining perpendicular thread to make the second cut as close as possible. The darker thread in the diagram is therefore lifted to the front of the canvas, while the lighter one is pulled to the back. (The blue stitches have been moved behind the canvas threads to show the details.) The project must be aranged to have enough threads remaining to support the fabric. Threads to be removed are always cut at the edges of kloster blocks; the satin stitches should be parallel to the threads cut. Cutting threads along the length of a satin stitch (perpendicular) usually causes collapse.The sets of threads remaining between open blocks are then bound together, either by wrapping or needleweaving.

Eyelets The simplest filling for a small square is a pulled square eyelet. (See eyelet example. ) A needle or awl may be used to enlarge the center hole before beginning to stitch. The fabric should not buckle; the threads are simply pulled closer together. Be careful that the stitches of the eyelet do not overlap or cross over each other on either the front or the back. Otherwise, the interior threads are cut and removed. The space can be left open, or one of several fillings can be used.

Filling Stitches - small squares Most fillings are worked on the same pass as the wrapping or needleweaving of the last edge of each block. This digram shows a loopstitch (or dove's eye) in conjunction with needlewoven thread bundles. The bundles can be wrapped instead (the coils should be fairly tightly packed). Or a rotated loopsitch can be produced after the bundles are complete; the loops would then pass diagonally over two threads at the corners. The tension on the thread forming the loopstitch should be fairly loose (but consistent); the proportions can be changed by making additional wraps after anchoring each loop, instead of a simple crossover. Threads should wrap in a consistent direction.

Satin Stitch Motifs The traditional satin stitch forms are the trapezoid and the "boat" (trapezoid with the curving end). These are usually arranged in rows or symmetrical starbursts, flowers, etc. Or a diagonally-sliced half flower can be worked against a diagonal line of stitched blocks.

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