I spent three months in New Zealand from December 2004 to March 2005. i traveled, slept, and cooked in a van i obtained at the beginning of the trip, and this van became my vehicle for freedom. i found alpine mountains, golden sand beaches, ecclectic coffee houses, and deserted mining towns. i discovered loneliness, friendship and happiness as if for the first time in my life. and at one point, i'm pretty sure i found the end of the rainbow. the following is a series of journal entries posted as a blog during this three month trip in new zealand (i actually spent an additional 5 weeks in australia and thailand after that). it starts in reverse order, so scroll to the bottom to begin the tale...

Or view the photo gallery.

march 06, 2005

Goodbye, New Zealand

I end this amazing New Zealand journey in the place it all started three months ago: Christchurch. It is the south island's largest city and described as the most English of them all (with street names like Gloucester, Worcester and Manchester it's not hard to figure out why). But at the moment I'm most impressed by the curry houses, satay and noodle shops, kebab stalls and souvlaki shops that line every street. I've sold my van, sent all excess luggage home, packed my single backpack, and await my flight to Sydney. This has been an amazing visit, and I've learned a great deal about both New Zealand and Myself. Looking forward to sharing more stories over a coffee (oh yeah, green tea) when I get back, but read on for a few morsels of retrospective ramblings:

If I only had one word to sum up my experience in New Zealand it's this: Freedom. Underlined and with a capital F. I've never felt such freedom in my entire life and I will never forget it. Buying a van was the best thing I could have done here. I could go where I wanted, whenever I wanted and for however long I wanted. I ate, ran, slept and traveled whenever I felt the urge.

New Zealand is a country that makes traveling, adventuring and being outside so easy. If you have an idea, you can do it here. Want to jump off a cliff? Fine. Want to rent a mountain bike to ride kamikaze style straight down a mountain? Fine. Want to get a helicopter lift to the start of a mountain trail, run 50km and have a jet boat pick you up at the end? Fine. They won't even question you about it; just a simple "Good on ya, mate."

Some of the highlights of my trip were the places I parked my van for the night. Maybe it was on a bluff overlooking the ocean or maybe it was a parking lot in the city; I appreciated them all for simple freedom they represented. I never felt lonely in the van at night; in fact, the more remote I was, the less lonely it felt.

Some simple numbers: there are 4 million people in New Zealand. There are over 16 million sheep. (I counted 18 million)

Ironically, I didn't meet many travelers on this trip. Three years ago I came home from an around-the-world trip with a book full of email addresses from travelers I met. This trip I might come home with five. This trip was more about exploring my own independence and freedom. Interestingly, I found it in the remote reaches of the mountains, on a runs by myself, or alone in the van. It might sound depressing but it was actually very fulfilling.

The food: It's not just fish n chips anymore. International influence and kiwi ingenuity have stirred up some interesting cuisine around the country. Indian and Thai restaurants are found in almost every city along with some increasingly creative cafes. Fresh fruit everywhere.

This trip wasn't just about being alone. Early on in the trip, I decided to seek out local runners for training partners. Little did I know, I would get much more than that: friendship, hospitality and inspiration. I've never been so inspired to run in my life. Granted, the fantastic landscape had something to do with it, but mostly it was the athletes I met. In general, I was inspired by how tough the kiwis are, and their ability to JFK (Just Fucking Train); no heart rate monitors, no lab tests, no support groups and generally no sponsorship. Just pure enjoyment and toughness (and sometimes pigheadedness!).

I will remember Marty MacDonald (NZ mountain running team manager and top runner) for welcoming me into his house for a week in Wellington and being the first to question my training and goals. Jonathan Wyatt (4 time world champ and Olympic marathoner who I met for one night) for his drive, overwhelming talent and professionalism. Callum Harland (top NZ mountain runner) for his kindness and remarkable talent despite working a busy schedule. Rob and Helen Barber (Jumbo-Holdworth race directors) for their incredible hospitality. Melissa Moon (NZ's top female mtn. runner) for her enthusiasm and optimism. Mike Moreu for his love of life, running and family; for his creative energy, training discussions and friendship. And many more...

And speaking of running... this trip opened my eyes. It inspired me, challenged me and intimidated me all at once. Thanks to meeting these great Kiwi runners, I'm starting to understand what it takes to be really good (like, World class good), and I have a lot of work to do. Do I have the drive? Am I willing to make the sacrifices? If I truly enjoy running, competing and striving for my full potential, it wouldn't be a sacrifice, would it?

Driving on the left side is easy. So is getting sunburned without an ozone layer.

The real joy I find in traveling is the opportunity to live simply. To have the time to appreciate the sound of the ocean at night and the colors of the sunset. To consider each day an unknown adventure. To wake up in the morning and ask myself "what do I want to do today?" instead of the usual "what do I have to do today?" Is it possible to have this mentality and appreciation while living and working at home? For myself, I'm skeptical. But there's probably a balance to reach and I intend to find it.

Thank you for taking the time to read this blog.

Galen

Ps -
I'm accepting donations to purchase a flat in Nelson. Please feel free to deposit large sums of cash into my bank account. Largest donors will be welcomed for the longest visits.

February 27, 2005

Wanaka to Christchurch

When I last left you, I was in Wanaka. I had just finished a road trip that included a half marathon and a long adventure in the mountains, so I spent several days in the alpine resort town of Wanaka getting some R&R. I was staying with the Koski's (Kraig and Brooke and their kids) who are friends from Boulder doing a house exchange in New Zealand. It was great to stay with them, eat meals together, talk about traveling, and Kraig and I went on some great runs together.

Kraig and I ran the Routeburn Track together, a 32 km mountain trail which climbs a beautiful alpine pass, travels through moss-covered rainforests, and underneath a 200-ft waterfall all in a matter of a few hours (can't get that in Colorado). Kraig had to turn back after an hour to meet his family but I continued to the end of the track, soaked to the bone and wondering how I was going to get back to town. As luck (or karma?) would have it, a very kind 70 y.o. Japanese man picked me up within three minutes of finishing and drove me back to town where I feasted to my heart's content.

After the run I settled in Queenstown for a few days to rub elbows with other tourists again. Queenstown in known as the adrenalin/adventure capital of New Zealand, and travellers are constantly bombarded with advertisements and opportunities to jump off the nearest bridge, cliff or airplane. Maybe it was the atmosphere, or maybe I was still feeling the adrenalin from my run (yeah right…), but I suddenly decided to do something totally against my nature… against my instincts… against my better judgment. I decided to jump off a cliff. It's called a Canyon Swing (It's the newest thrill in town) and involves a 200 foot freefall off the edge of a cliff, then a 100 mph pendulum swing across the floor of the canyon. It was so fun I did it twice. And I'm still alive.

After the Canyon Swing, I decided I'd better get out of Queenstown before I spent any more money on pointless life-threatening activities. So I went back up to Wanaka for a few days. The great thing about being in Wanaka was that I felt like I was living there, not just travelling through. I was staying in a real house, cooking meals in a real kitchen, and actually running the same trail more than once.

Note: the next section is about a mountain race I did… it's a bit lengthy so continue at your own risk!

I drove up the West Coast where I enjoyed a lovely sunset on the beach then up into the mountains of Arthur's Pass National Park. I ran my second mountain race here called the Avalanche Peak Challenge. It's a 26km race that goes straight up Avalanche Peak (kiwis are too tough for switchbacks), straight down a steep scree field on the other side, then boulder hopping out a river valley for the next 20km. Over 6000 feet of climbing. The trail up Avalanche Peak was so steep we were literally pulling up on tree roots and climbing with our hands up short headwalls. Ill-prepared for power hiking on such rugged terrain, I fell back to eighth place on the climb!!! It was unlike anything I've ever experienced in a race. But the summit offered incredible views of the snow capped peaks among us… this was a true mountain race.

The descent was a 15 minute controlled fall/slide down a 3000 foot shingle slope, into the Crow River valley. But from here, this race of attrition was only just beginning. Although the steep climbing was over, the trail didn't get any easier. The next hour and half would be spent hopping over boulders, swinging around trees, making countless river crossings, and pounding on a riverbed lined with softball size rocks. This is where I passed the five guys who got me on the climb. I have plenty of endurance right now, but lacked the high-end threshold fitness for the climb. I finished in third place, behind two top multisport (adventure racer) guys who thrive on this terrain. The first place guy was Carsten Joargensen, a danish olympian and european orienteering champion who has the course record on the Coast 2 Coast running course.

I was hoping to do better than third, but was happy with my effort, especially considering I'm living out of a van and it's my offseason. It was a spectacular course and I highly recommend it to anyone who can make it down here.

I'm in Christchurch now, planning my next and final week in New Zealand and starting to advertise the sale of my van. I even rented a cell phone to field calls for it!

February 17, 2005

West Coast to Mt Cook

It’s been an eventful 10 days of traveling since my last posting. It has taken me from the sunny beaches of Golden Bay to the wild and rainy west coast, over the continental divide to the thermal pools of Hamner Springs… and down to the snow capped peaks of the Southern Alps. I’ve ended up back in Wanaka, a quaint mountain resort town known for its abundance of outdoor activities and spectacular mountain-lakeside setting.

I left the Golden Bay area after spending a week running and swimming on New Zealand’s finest beaches. It was like a vacation within a vacation, and I left there feeling refreshed and energized to continue traveling. I stopped in Nelson for a few days to regroup first. Nelson has become my home away from home on this trip, as indicated by the amount of time I have spent there. The sunny climate, great running trails, and most of all the good friends I have made there make it a difficult place to say goodbye to. But last Friday, I finally bid Nelson farewell as I departed for the west coast town of Westport.

I went to Wesport to run the Buller Gorge 1/2 Marathon, and to hang out with my friends Mike and Fran for the weekend. It’s one of the largest races in the country with over 2000 participants. I was still recovering from a pulled hamstring and couldn’t open it up like I was hoping and finished a disappointing sixth place in 1:18. The highlight was that I split my head open 10 minutes before the start of the race (I won’t tell you how) and proceeded to run the race with a haphazard bandage on my forehead and blood streaming down my face. It was quite the spectacle. After the race I visited the local hospital and received glue-sutures at no cost thanks the socialized healthcare system in NZ. Mike got second place in the Marathon and appears to be on his way to a successful race season as one of New Zealand’s top marathoners.

The next day we caravanned across the continental divide of New Zealand to the thermal pools of Hamner Springs. This is the Glenwood Springs of New Zealand and it was just what the doctor ordered after the race. Soaking in the thermal pools surrounded by beautiful mountains and good company was a perfect way to end the weekend.

The next day Mike and Fran drove back to Nelson and I continued south to the snow capped peaks of Mount Cook National Park. Before I left on this trip I had thoughts of climbing Mt Cook (New Zealand’s tallest mountain) should the opportunity present itself… but it didn’t. That will have to wait until next time. Instead, I did a beautiful alpine route that included Sir Peter Hillary’s first summit (Mt. Ollivier) and a beautiful ridge traverse across snowfields and some low fifth class rock bands. The Southern Alps are the most aesthetic peaks I have seen outside the Himalayas. I had plans for several other routes but the weather turned foul, so I headed south to Wanaka.

Three weeks to go. Say it isn’t so…

February 06, 2005

Another Day in Paradise

I have found another slice of paradise in this country called Aotearoa (Maori for New Zealand). The Abel Tasman National Park is located on a peninsula on the northern tip of the South Island. I came up here to run the classic trail that traces the coastline of the park. 4 days later, I'm still here.

The 50 km trail receives more "trampers" than any other trail in the country. I can see why. As I started running along the sandy path I felt I was suddenly transported into another country altogether. The coastline, which the trail follows, is littered with countless coves hiding picturesque golden sand beaches. Each beach was like a little oasis bordered by giant ferns, brilliant turquoise water, fine golden sand, and dramatic rock outcroppings. They are the kind of beaches I have seen in Thailand, except there were no bungalows and restaurants to be found (this is a national park). I would stop at each beach I encountered and jump in the water for a refreshing swim. Out of all the long runs I have done on this trip, this is the only one I wished I had walked instead.

Regretting my fast pace along this beautiful stretch of coastline, I decided to drive to one of the few beaches in the park that had road access and spend a few days. A typical day consisted of going for a morning run along the beach, swim in the ocean, breakfast … long blank period of doing relatively nothing … evening yoga, dinner, reading, bed. Sometimes it's the simple pleasure of staying put that makes traveling so wonderful.

Also this week: met some friends at the Mussel Inn where we enjoyed live African dance music, pint of stout, and delicious peach crisp a la mode… and bouldering above the river at Payne's Ford with Will Howard (from Arizona).

February 02, 2005

Halfway in New Zealand

I’ve reached the halfway point on this three-month trip to New Zealand. It started with four weeks traveling around the South Island, followed by two weeks in the North Island. I find myself now back in Nelson on the northern tip of the South Island, plotting course for the remaining five weeks. The trip is evolving beautifully and only seems to get more interesting as time goes on.

After I parted company with Scott, I decided to make running the basis for my travels, and this decision has been incredibly fruitful. Mountain running not only takes me deep into the backcountry and mountains of New Zealand, but it also connects me with the local community in a way that wouldn’t be possible if I was just a backpacker. In my eighteen days on the North Island I stayed in the homes of other runners for 12 of those nights! My last three days were spent in the farm country of the Wairarapa where I stayed with the race directors (Rob & Helen) of a mountain race that I entered (got 2nd). The hospitality they offered was tremendous: barbeques every night, 4x4 off-road tours of the Tararua mountains, and a private airplane ride over the mountains and coastline!

In Nelson I’m training with a great guy named Mike Moreu. Mike lives in Nelson with his wife, Fran, and 20-month boy, Tom. They are a lovely family and I have been enjoying spending the evenings with them for dinner and movies. Mike is also training for a spot on the New Zealand Mountain Running team and a really fast time (2:20) at the Christchurch Marathon, so he is an excellent training partner! Mike and Fran are one of the reasons i have spent so much time in Nelson (3-4 weeks!) and I consider them lifelong friends now...a very special bonus on this trip.

I have two more races planned in the next five weeks, plus countless runs up unknown peaks and canyons… the adventure continues.

January 29, 2005

North Island

I'm standing on the beach in Napier on the east coast of New Zealand. The setting sun warms the back of my neck as I gaze out at the endless sea. A cool evening breeze picks up and I head back to my luxurious beachfront suite (van parked in the beach parking lot) for the evening and fix a warm cup of tea. My thoughts turn to the previous week which I have spent touring around the North Island.

I drove north from Wellington 8 days ago. My first stop was Mt Taranaki - a perfectly shaped conical volcano that sticks out of a flat peninsula on the west coast. It's one of the most picturesque mountains I've ever seen and I was psyched to climb it. Like all volcanoes, it ended up being a slow slog straight up a scree slope, followed by an endless snow glacade on the descent, but standing on the summit above the layer of clouds was spectacular.

Next I drove to Tongariro National Park and stayed at a lodge owned by one of New Zealand's top Mountain Runners: Callum Harland. He offered to let me stay for free in exchange for bartending duties… I jumped at the opportunity. It was fun to reverse roles for a few days, meeting tourists on the other side of the counter, while I made drinks for them. Callum is a really cool dude and it was great to meet him and his whole family. I also ran the Tongariro Northern Circuit, a 42 km run around Mt. Ngauruhoe (used as Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings) over amazing volcanic lava flows and filled in craters.

Next I drove east across one of the worst roads I've ever driven on. It took 4 hours to drive 60 miles on a winding, climbing, single lane dirt road. I also made the mistake of leaving my windows down, only to find a visible layer of road dust covering the entire contents of my van, including food, clothes and bedding. But I arrived at a beautiful lake situated in the middle of forest-covered mountains. I ran a 42 km run around this lake, which required a water taxi (boat) to drop me off and pick me up. I was 30 minutes late for my pickup (I was tired after running two mountain marathons in 3 days!!) but the friendly water taxi driver was patiently waiting.

Next I drove to the East Coast town of Napier. This place really feels like the Napa Valley of New Zealand. An earthquake destroyed the entire town in the 1950s so they rebuilt the entire city in the [then] current architecture trend: Art Decco. It's quite nice. Tired from my two marathons, I went on a wine tour today and sampled a copious amount of superb wine from the region - my favorite so far in New Zealand.

Next… south for my final few days on the North Island. I will run my first race in New Zealand in the Tararua Mountains (just north of Wellington) where I'm staying with the Race Directors. Then it's over the ferry again for my final five weeks on the South Island. Stay tuned.

January 23, 2005

Wellington

This blog would not be complete without an entry on Wellington. Wellington is known for its urban cafes, museums and government buildings, well-dressed businesspeople, and the wind. Relentless wind. Based on my one week in Wellington, I can verify all these are true.

I came to the capital city for reasons other than sipping espresso on a corner café (although I did that almost every day too); Wellington is the host of the World Mountain Running Trophy race next September and is also home to several of New Zealand's top mountain runners. I decided to make Wellington my home for seven days to train on the Championship course and to meet some local athletes.

I was fortunate enough to be invited to stay with the manger of New Zealand's mountain running team, Marty MacDonald and his three sons, Troy, Tim and Matt. Staying with these guys ended up being the highlight of the week. My second night there, the eldest son Matt (14) and I cooked up a huge Indian Barbeque with several other families involved. With grilled chicken tikka, kebabs, prawns, and more, it was my tastiest meal in New Zealand yet. I cooked and helped out around the house to thank Marty for his tremendous hospitality.

During the days I took the train into the City (proper) and explored the urban landscape, which I had not seen at all in the South Island. I checked out some art galleries, the national museum (and learned some things about Maori history), espresso bars, and people-watched in the city parks. I also got my travel vaccines for my trip to Thailand.

The other main thing I did in Wellington was train on the mountain running trophy course. I walked the course first with a local veteran female runner (Marty's ex-wife, actually). Then I ran the course three times to get a good feel for it. It's a brutal 12 km course with steep climbs and pounding descents. If I'm selected to run with the US team, I'll have a certain leg-up on the other international competition thanks to this mental training.

The pace in Wellington seemed so much faster than what I was used to in the South Island. I actually found it difficult to hook up with other runners because people actually had schedules here… nothing like the south island, where a typical question would be "What's the rush, mate?" But I will remember Wellington as a beautiful city (with beautiful people) full of charge and international flavor, and I hope to return in September for the race!

January 15, 2005

Perfect Day

I would like to describe a series of events that have led to one of my most perfect days in New Zealand so far. As individual occurrences, they may seem somewhat insignificant, but combined into a single day each one of these events contributed in some special way to why I find travel so incredibly fulfilling and magical.

Let’s start with right now; always the most important moment, after all (although now will be later by the time I post this). A sliver of a new moon rises. I sit in my folding chair, inside the van, facing out the opening sliding door, which overlooks the sun setting g over the Marlborough Sounds. I’m drinking a cup of ginger tea and listening to my favorite Elliot Smith song. If I ended my story right there, would be swimming in my own bliss, but you, my dear reader, would probably be wondering what all the fuss is about.

Allow me to continue. Backwards.

Dinner. The second most important occurrence in each day. By recommendation from a local Picton citizen, I found a hole-in-the-wall fish and chips joint where they sell the best greasy food in town wrapped up in sheets of newspaper. I brought my 2 kilos of food, along with a bottle of sweet Thai chili sauce, and a few cans of cheap beer down to the grassy park and watched the ships sail in a and out of the harbor. I had been daydreaming about this meal all day.

Shower. Washed the mud, sweat and seawater off my sun parched body underneath the solar shower bag perched atop the van. This simple act of bathing outside under warm water generously heated by the sun has to be one of my favorite travel experiences of all time.

Run Took a one hour boat ride from Picton to the end of a peninsula in Marlborough Sounds and ran 50 km back on a trail called the Queen Charlotte Track. It was incredible. Over 30 miles of soft singletrack over the headlands, through the beaches and around the coves of Marlborough Sounds. At kilometer 27 (about halfway) it dipped through a small village with a café serving cold beer on tap, muffins and panini sandwiches. I stopped for a ginger beer and met a couple from Christchurch, who within 2 minutes of chatting offered me their guest bedroom for my entire stay in Christchurch. This sort of thing is not uncommon in New Zealand. After the run, I jumped in the ocean and caught another boat back to Picton.

Breakfast. Oatmeal. Need I say more?

Wake up. In a van down by the ocean.

I ask myself now: are these experiences really that remarkable… or do I just appreciate them more when I’m living such a simple life on the road? Something to think about I as wish you goodnight.

January 04, 2005

New Year in Nelson

After two weeks of traveling at a pretty quick pace around the South Island, I've now spent seven days in the city of Nelson. It feels good to decompress in one place without the stresses and decisions associated with travel. Plus, it has given me the chance to meet some pretty cool locals. Nelson is known for its Sauvignon Blanc, sunny climate, eclectic artisan community, and really bad punk rock (insider New Years eve joke).

I'm staying in a "backpacker" hostel while Scott works on a farm for a week further up the coast. We will meet again on the 9th, at which point he will fly to Sydney and I will remain in New Zealand with the van. This hostel is actually quite nice; It's a small and homey place on the outskirts of town, owned and operated by a young kiwi couple. It has a garden, a hammock, nice kitchen, laundry, and good music always playing. Best of all, there's a hot shower guaranteed every time I return from a run, which was not the case with the camper van. And of course, like all hostels, there's a steady flow of Germans, Canadians, Britts and Swedes passing through (no Americans).

Nelson is my favorite place in New Zealand so far. It doesn't have the jaw dropping rain-drenched coastline of Fiordlands, or the picturesque mountain/lakeside setting of Queenstown or Wanaka, but it has a certain Mediterranean softness. The evening light reminds me of being in Tuscany as the sun filters through oak trees and cafe awnings. The hills surrounding town don't tower above tree line like the mountains in Queenstown/Wanaka, but they are abound with quiet trails perfect for running. Perched on an ocean bay, the climate in Nelson is also quite Mediterranean; mild and sunny.

There is a Jazz Festival in town with free outdoor live music every day. I've been enjoying my lazy afternoons of lying in a grassy park, eating a sandwich, listening to live music and meeting other folks doing the same. Last night i met a guy named Mike at a 3 km road race I ran in (I got second) who invited me to dinner with his family. He's a cartoon artist, childrens book author and a 2:20 marathoner. We have several runs planned together, including some races. Also on the agenda: sample the local wines on a vineyard tour (today), visit the Saturday farmer/artisan market, run a beautiful coastline trail in Abel Tasman National Park, swim in the ocean, lie on the beach, and check out the local climbing gym. Life is good.

And I just purchased a ticket to Thailand for March.

December 25, 2004

Christmas in Queenstown

Ironically, after two weeks of rain and clouds, the sun came up on this Christmas morning, gloriously unobstructed. I awoke from my bunk bed at 7:00 as the sun pierced through the clerestory of the mountain hut Scott and I spent Christmas Eve in, and I knew it was going to be a good day.

Before anyone else in the 50-bunk hut stirred, I was running up to Harris Saddle, an alpine pass above timberline on the Routeburn Track. (The Routeburn Track is a 20-mile trail in Fiordlands National Park with four beautifully situated huts. We spent two nights including Christmas Eve on this trek). I paused near the top of the pass and greeted the sun with open arms and a Christmas blessing to all my family and friends back home. You see, I have not seen much of the sun in the past two weeks. It seems I have chosen one of the rainiest places on the planet to spend the first two weeks of my "summer vacation". Here are some highlights of the past week:

* Sea Kayaking. After finishing the Kepler Track, Scott and I went sea kayaking at Milford Sound. Although we were forced to go as part of a tour group, it was completely worth it to paddle this amazing rain drenched fiord. This place receives the second highest rainfall on the planet (according to our Kayak Guide) at nearly 33 feet per year! It rains so much that there's actually a constant layer of fresh rainwater (between 3 inches to 3 feet thick) above the salt water that flows into the fiord from the ocean. It rained nearly the whole day while we kayaked, but it only added to the drama of this amazing formation. See photos "Milford Sound".

* Queenstown. This place is like the Thamel (Kathmandu) of New Zealand. Heaps of tourist agencies (bungee jumping, paragliding, jetboating) and kitschy souvenir shops, but also some really great restaurants (Indian, thai, Japanese, etc.) and some fantastic running trails. I did a great 2.5 hr run to the top of a Ben Lomond peak, which offered great views of Queenstown and paragliders jumping off the side of cliffs. See photo album "Queenstown".

* Routeburn Track. As mentioned above, we spent two nights in mountain huts on the Routeburn Track, including Christmas Eve. We hauled in a 2 liter bladder of New Zealand red wine, pasta, sausage, green curry, pancakes, bacon, and an entire pineapple for our Christmas dinner and breakfast. We shared our wine and breakfast with many of our hut mates, including the stoic hut guardian. See photo album "Routeburn Track".

Next we move north to Wanaka, another lakeside city surrounded by mountains, then up the west coast until we reach the sunny, wine-country region of Nelson, which is where we will spend New Years.

December 19, 2004

The Kepler Track

Greetings from The Shire. Or so it seems. Yes, it's true; it really does look like Lord of the Rings scenery down here. Every turn made driving through the South Island countryside reveals what appears to be another natural setting for the Lord of the Rings. The rolling green pastures with sheep grazing and white-capped mountains in the background is the ubiquitous South Island landscape that never ceases to impress me. But three days ago, Scott and I parked the van and ventured out on foot to discover Middle Earth up close and personal. Ok, no more LOTR analogies.

The Kepler Track is a 67 km loop in Fiordlands National Park on the southwest side of the South Island. The track (they call them 'tracks' here instead of 'treks') starts at 825 ft. elevation and peaks at 4620 ft elevation and the climate changes from temperate rainforest to alpine. The track starts out traversing the side of a lake through beech forests (covered in green moss) and a thick under story of ferns and thousands of other unknown green plants. It's probably the greenest environment I've ever seen. In one square meter of ground there are probably more plant species than in the entire state of Colorado. I'm serious. (NB: If you read no further, at least look at the photos)

Higher elevations reveal a beautiful alpine environment with snow capped peaks and ridges and vistas of shimmering mountain lakes and lush glacial valleys. The first night's hut (Luxmoore Hut) was located just above treeline (about 3300 ft.), where it snowed all night and the next day. There are three huts located along the Kepler Track (all the popular tracks in New Zealand have both hut and camping accommodations) and I was more than happy to leave the tent behind. The huts are larger than the 10th Mountain Division huts of Colorado (some hold 50 people) but are much more sparsely furnished. Typically, there is a common room with a wood stove, picnic tables, a kitchen with gas stoves and sinks, and a large bunkroom. Unlike Colorado's huts, there are no other cooking amenities (like dishes, pots, pans) or books/games to keep one occupied. Instead, we were forced to talk about American foreign policy and various Bushisms with our European hut mates. Actually, we had good conversation.

The best part is, unlike in Asia, you can drink the water everywhere. And there is a lot of water… in the ground (rivers and lakes and waterfalls everywhere) and in the sky. Yes, there is a reason it's so green here; it rains a lot. I pictured myself coming to the southern hemisphere in December and swimming in 80-degree ocean water and running around in the mountains wearing only shorts and T-shirt. Sometimes I wonder if the plane accidentally dropped me off in southern Patagonia instead. But it's amazing landscape and worth wearing the raincoat for. (and warmer weather awaits me further north)

I finished the track in three days (Scott stayed for extra day while I ran the last part) and I'm looking forward to coming back in February to run the track in one shot. The course record is a very fast 4hr:40min set during the Kepler Challenge, an annual race around the loop. It was nice walking it once to really notice the details and get to know this beautiful, lush landscape of the South Island.

December 15, 2004

First Day in NZ

It's 10:00 at night, pouring rain outside, and I'm camping in the parking lot of a town out in the middle of nowhere (I don't even know the name). Under normal circumstances, I would consider the situation I just described as borderline miserable (I hate camping in the rain). But these are not normal circumstances. Allow me to explain:

First of all, even though it's 10:00 at night, it's only just beginning to get dark. That's the beauty of being at this latitude in the southern hemisphere in December. And my campsite in this parking lot is actually a 1983 Toyota Hiace Camper Van. The van has a pop-top with a twin size bed and a canopy bunk above it, which allows two people (Scott and myself) to sleep comfortably. There is also a sink, a refrigerator and a two burner gas stove. We just finished a fantastic meal of Indian Tikka Masala with cous cous cooked on the stove, accompanied by a few cans of cheap New Zealand lager. This "campsite" also has built-in speakers, which are loudly playing songs from my iPod as I write this. These are just a few reasons why I'm enjoying this campsite so much.

We find ourselves here tonight on our way from the east coast town of Dunedin to the west coast town of Te Anau in the South Island. We were running low on gas and the only filling station in this town was closed for the day, so we pulled into a parking lot behind a hotel to stay for the night. The day started out well: I woke up from the most perfect campsite ever (even more perfect than this parking lot); on the edge of a bluff overlooking the ocean, falling asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the beach. As soon as I woke up I went for a run that took me along the beach, up and over some steep cliffs with penguins perched on the side and back through rolling sheep pastures. It was perfect. The rest of the day was spent driving along the coast, stopping for lunch (vegemite sandwhich with avocado and tomato, plus apricots and chocolate) at a park in Dunedin, which is the second largest city in the south island, then inward/westward through endless rolling sheep pastures, dairy farms and small towns.

Tomorrow we go to Te Anau where we will prep for our two treks; Kepler and Routeburn. More on those after we finish!