
dave checking out fairview dome from on top of daff dome
see more photos here
dave mackey is one of the few people
that would consider climbing in yosemite "resting" before
a 100 mile trail race. but that's what we did the week leading
up to his first ever 100 mile event... the Western States 100
Mile Endurance Run in Squaw Valley. we spent 3 days/4 nights
in tuolumne meadows campground. since dave was supposedly "resting",
we limited ourselves to 1 or 2 routes each day, but we made
sure they were classics.

dave on crescent arches |
day 1: we went up to the
base of fairview dome to attempt the ultra classic regular
route but two slow-looking parties were just getting started
so we decided to bail. the closest dome around was daff dome
(daff stands for dome across from fairview
dome) so we sauntered over there and started up the west crack.
the west crack is three pitches of fun 5.8 crack climbing,
and proved to be a nice warmup to our next climb: crescent
arches. this is a 5 pitch climb (crux rated at 5.10c)
was put up by colorado's own layton kor back in the day. it
features a moderate 1st pitch followed by 3 solid pitches of
underclinging crack climbing under the prominent arched roofs
that are visible from the tioga pass road. i think this turned
out to be our favorite climb of the trip, although it left
both of our backs pretty sore from the strenuous toe-touching
underclings.
day 2: we returned to fairview
dome the next morning with a crack-of-noon start (well, 10:00).

tenaya lake |
fortunately, there wasn't a single party on the entire route
so we geared up and i started up the first pitch. as i was
belaying dave from the top of pitch 1, we noticed clouds making
their way over the summit. storms would not be an issue that
day as it turned out, but we climbed quickly just in case and
finished in 3.5 hours. the regular route is one of the "50
classic/crowded climbs of north america" and certainly deserves
it reputation as being one of the nicest moderate climbs around.
the first of its 10 pitches are 5.9 and they only get easier
from there, with the last few pitches being a scramble
to the top. afterwards we went to tenaya lake for a swim. day 3:
i think dave started getting a little nervous that he wasn't
getting enough rest (with good reason) so we took our third
day pretty mellow. I got a nice run in up to cathedral lakes
via the john muir trail and dave slept in. later we decided
to head over to
crying time again |
lembert dome so he could belay me on the first
couple pitches of crying time again (5 pitches, 5.10). i had
no intentions of climbing the whole thing, but dave had other
ideas. at the top of every pitch i would belay dave up and
ask "okay, ready to go down?", and each time he would answer
something to the effect of "no way, you're not done leading".
so we ended up climbing the whole thing. the knobby face climbing
of the route was stellar, and a nice way to finish up the trip. day 4: despite our limited time we decided
to swing through the valley on our way to the sacramento airport
to pick up dave's wife, ellen. it was probably a mistake as
we spent most of our time in the car, held up in traffic. but
we did have a chance to run up to lower yosemite falls and
jump off the bridge below El cap into the merced river.
tuolumne meadows feels like a second home
to me now after four visits in the last six years. there
are few places i hold in such high regard. maybe it's waking
up on a frosty morning and getting out for a beautiful run
before anyone else is awake. or maybe its the high-country
climbing on perfect granite followed by a swim in spectacular
tenaya lake. or maybe it's the legacy of people i find myself
in the company of in tuolumne... brian, annamieka, and now,
dave. maybe these wonderful people help define what feels like
paradise to me in tuolumne meadows.
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