How-to
Installing Cabinet Hardware 2 (How-to Guide)
Nov/15/08 05:20 PM
Ok, so I could have used a fancy template for the
knobs. But what fun is that? Now, for the bin pulls I
AM going to use a template, yep, but a template that
I made myself. But first my disclaimer: I'm not
claiming to be an expert so following this how-to
could leave you with some eff'd-up cabinets, so just
know that this is how I DID IT.
The first step is taking measurements and the second step is taking those same measurements again (very important step). In these first two steps you are trying to find the center line (A). Then in the two halves of the drawer face you want to find their center lines, A.K.A. what I call the "quarter lines" (C). On these quarter lines place a piece of painters tape and mark the measurement on the tape (C). After that find the center line in the height of the drawer face, and measure the distance from the top of the drawer face to the center (D). Now, on to step three making the template.
(Forgive me for this step you may have to read it a couple of times, I know I have to and I've done this before) For this step I used a stiff piece of cardboard, much like the back cover of a spiral bound notebook. This will be your template so use something that you know to have a good straight edge on it (represented in figure E). On this template I used my trusty triangle, you could use anything with a good crisp 90º angle on it. Draw a line perpendicular to the straight edge of the cardboard, roundabout somewheres in the middle (We'll call this the Vertical Line). Then measure out the height that is equal to the height of half the drawer face (remember figure D?). Then draw a second line perpendicular to the first line on this measurement (We'll call this the Horizontal Line). MAKE SURE that line is perfectly parallel to the top edge of your template or your pulls will be crooked as hell. Ok, so now your template has a really nice "T" on it. Test it out. Line up the top edge of your template with your drawer face and then slide it over until the Vertical Line matches up with the mark you drew on the the painters tape (C)
My bin pulls had three holes in them (F). If yours do too then take a bin pull and lay it on your template and line up the center hole to the vertical line and the left and right holes on the horizontal line then mark their locations on the template (Now your template should look something like the red lines in figure E). "But your pulls won't be perfectly centered if you do that", it's ok because you are creating visual weight with the height placement. Now drill some holes with the correct sized bit into your template at the marked locations.
Alright we are ready to go. Line up your template to the top edge of the drawer and the center marks on the tape you drew earlier and drill the pilot holes careful not to drill all the way through. Then use a hand operated screwdriver to attach the hardware (A power drill can accidentally go too fast and strip the crew).
Something Different: My bottom drawer is deeper than my top drawers, so how did I deal with that (G)? I used the same template, basically it just creates more visual weight BUT it also keeps it consistent with the other drawers.
Now if you are as thoroughly confused as I am, have at it.
The first step is taking measurements and the second step is taking those same measurements again (very important step). In these first two steps you are trying to find the center line (A). Then in the two halves of the drawer face you want to find their center lines, A.K.A. what I call the "quarter lines" (C). On these quarter lines place a piece of painters tape and mark the measurement on the tape (C). After that find the center line in the height of the drawer face, and measure the distance from the top of the drawer face to the center (D). Now, on to step three making the template.
(Forgive me for this step you may have to read it a couple of times, I know I have to and I've done this before) For this step I used a stiff piece of cardboard, much like the back cover of a spiral bound notebook. This will be your template so use something that you know to have a good straight edge on it (represented in figure E). On this template I used my trusty triangle, you could use anything with a good crisp 90º angle on it. Draw a line perpendicular to the straight edge of the cardboard, roundabout somewheres in the middle (We'll call this the Vertical Line). Then measure out the height that is equal to the height of half the drawer face (remember figure D?). Then draw a second line perpendicular to the first line on this measurement (We'll call this the Horizontal Line). MAKE SURE that line is perfectly parallel to the top edge of your template or your pulls will be crooked as hell. Ok, so now your template has a really nice "T" on it. Test it out. Line up the top edge of your template with your drawer face and then slide it over until the Vertical Line matches up with the mark you drew on the the painters tape (C)
My bin pulls had three holes in them (F). If yours do too then take a bin pull and lay it on your template and line up the center hole to the vertical line and the left and right holes on the horizontal line then mark their locations on the template (Now your template should look something like the red lines in figure E). "But your pulls won't be perfectly centered if you do that", it's ok because you are creating visual weight with the height placement. Now drill some holes with the correct sized bit into your template at the marked locations.
Alright we are ready to go. Line up your template to the top edge of the drawer and the center marks on the tape you drew earlier and drill the pilot holes careful not to drill all the way through. Then use a hand operated screwdriver to attach the hardware (A power drill can accidentally go too fast and strip the crew).
Something Different: My bottom drawer is deeper than my top drawers, so how did I deal with that (G)? I used the same template, basically it just creates more visual weight BUT it also keeps it consistent with the other drawers.
Now if you are as thoroughly confused as I am, have at it.
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Installing Cabinet Hardware (How-to guide)
Oct/31/08 04:01 AM
In this post I will attempt to unravel the mystery of
where to drill for cabinet hardware. Fact of the
matter is, there is no "right" way considering there
are so many variables. Cabinet hardware comes in
enough varieties and styles to make your head spin.
Cabinet doors are equally diverse, further making the
"single method" even more elusive. Mix in a little
"personal preference" with that and all of a sudden
you have the same dumbfounded look on your face as I
did when I began this project.
During my research, I came across a guide that told me to measure up (or down if on a lower cabinet) 2.5" and over 1.5" and drill the hole for the knob. Had I done that I would be purchasing new cabinet doors, or filling a bunch of ugly holes in the face of my cabinets. This method would have worked fine if I had flat faced cabinets, but most of us have recessed panels making it a little more difficult. The point of this is that everyone's cabinets are different and following this guide could leave you in a situation similar to what I just described. There is just no substitution for good ol' fashioned thinkin'.
That being said, let's start with a simple cabinet knob. I took a ruler (a tape measure is a little too bulky and inaccurate for this job) and measured the width of the door's stile and divided that in half to find the center line (A) then I moved the knob around on this line until I found the location height-wise that I liked which happened to be on the same line as the top of the rail (B). You might be inclined to make the height the same as your horizontal measurement, but I wouldn't recommend this unless it is a square door. In art-school we learned about an artistic principle called "visual weight" which by varying the height you can create visual weight and interest. That is the reason most cabinet makers install knobs this way, weather they know of this principle or just think it looks pretty, just know that there is a reason. Take our cabinet door design for example (C) it is a typical craftsman design, having longer panels at the bottom creates visual weight, therefore I want to mirror the effect by placing the knob so that it's placement accentuates the visual weight of the door. For the lower cabinets I just moved the same measurements to the top of the door (D).
Here is a good tip: Put a piece of painter's tape on the door and mark the location on the tape. This serves two purposes, first it allows you to mark a measurement on a door that may be painted or stained too dark to otherwise see your mark. Second it keeps the drill bit from slipping when you drill the hole.
After that I double-checked my measurements (a VERY important step) then drilled the holes. When drilling remember not to "force" the drill, doing so may result in splintering on the backside of the door, just let the drill do the work.
Then I screwed in the hardware and that was it.
Check back for the next post on how to install Bin Pulls.
During my research, I came across a guide that told me to measure up (or down if on a lower cabinet) 2.5" and over 1.5" and drill the hole for the knob. Had I done that I would be purchasing new cabinet doors, or filling a bunch of ugly holes in the face of my cabinets. This method would have worked fine if I had flat faced cabinets, but most of us have recessed panels making it a little more difficult. The point of this is that everyone's cabinets are different and following this guide could leave you in a situation similar to what I just described. There is just no substitution for good ol' fashioned thinkin'.
That being said, let's start with a simple cabinet knob. I took a ruler (a tape measure is a little too bulky and inaccurate for this job) and measured the width of the door's stile and divided that in half to find the center line (A) then I moved the knob around on this line until I found the location height-wise that I liked which happened to be on the same line as the top of the rail (B). You might be inclined to make the height the same as your horizontal measurement, but I wouldn't recommend this unless it is a square door. In art-school we learned about an artistic principle called "visual weight" which by varying the height you can create visual weight and interest. That is the reason most cabinet makers install knobs this way, weather they know of this principle or just think it looks pretty, just know that there is a reason. Take our cabinet door design for example (C) it is a typical craftsman design, having longer panels at the bottom creates visual weight, therefore I want to mirror the effect by placing the knob so that it's placement accentuates the visual weight of the door. For the lower cabinets I just moved the same measurements to the top of the door (D).
Here is a good tip: Put a piece of painter's tape on the door and mark the location on the tape. This serves two purposes, first it allows you to mark a measurement on a door that may be painted or stained too dark to otherwise see your mark. Second it keeps the drill bit from slipping when you drill the hole.
After that I double-checked my measurements (a VERY important step) then drilled the holes. When drilling remember not to "force" the drill, doing so may result in splintering on the backside of the door, just let the drill do the work.
Then I screwed in the hardware and that was it.
Check back for the next post on how to install Bin Pulls.