Furong Hotel

A China Caves Project

The Hotel contrasts with the surrounding drab concrete buildings. It is faced with white tiles and the name is spelled out in raised gold coloured lettering. The bottom floor is given over to a glass fronted reception room with pictures of the show cave. The building is of unusual design; there is no exit from the reception room other than by going out in the street again and then ascending the stairs to the rooms above. The roof of the staircase varies in height and tall people must take care to avoid knocking their heads. Above the dining room and kitchen, the bedrooms are equipped with televisions and new furniture. Each floor has two tiled squat toilets, a shower and a long wash basin. Later we find the electricity is often off in the day and the water pump ceases to work; river water has to be laboriously carried up the stairs. Nonetheless this is a luxurious base from which to cave.

The biggest surprise is reserved to last. That night we are invited to the Karaoke bar at the top of the building. Carpeted, swivelling flashing lights, hostesses, and videos and microphone to sing along to. It's obvious that only the elite can come here. It's an expensive place, but for the first night, it's free, except for a hidden cost. We have to perform at the Karaoke and dance with the hostesses. We can't be described as elegant at the best of times, dressed as we are in shorts exposing hairy legs, sandals, and brightly coloured T-shirts. After several days of travelling and caving, we are looking decidedly disreputable. The hostesses are dressed in their finery and the local elite are arranged in the comfy chairs round the dance floor. Pete Francis leads the singing.

What the Chinese make of Caving Club songs and renditions of 'Swing Low Sweet Chariot' can only be guessed at, but there is a storm of polite applause. Next we must dance. A woman dressed in tight red hot pants is singing a sad love song. Nearly all the songs have a romantic sentimental theme. The dancing is not wild disco dancing. Instead we should waltz around gently leading our beautiful partners. The reality is far different. Most of our team are enormous compared to the women and they can't dance. Their huge feet and lack of refinement cause general chaos on the dance floor.

We have a discussion as to what the curtained cubicles at the side of the dance floor are for. Some say they are for extra 'services'. I think it's just for privacy. None of us is brave enough to find out. Extra women have been brought in. They are the show cave guides and are described as Professor Zhu's students. We tease him mildly about only choosing attractive guides to the underworld.

A beer at the Karaoke costs 90 yuan (£7). I think it's more fun to drink in the street 'cafe', where the same beer costs 2 yuan (18p) and it's possible to watch and meet the passers-by.

Road To Jiang Kou