Iowa Machine Shed




INDIANOLA, IA - When I returned home for a week of vacation, I was relieved to find out that my weight was basically the same as it was when I left New York in January. I might have come home even lighter if I had not taken a meal at the Iowa Machine Shed in West Des Moines a couple of weeks ago. In spite of my own better judgment, I have no regrets about my dinner at the Shed, a restaurant so ridiculously bountiful that it could only occur in the glorious Midwest.

The Iowa Machine Shed in West Des Moines is one of roughly a dozen Machine Shed restaurants, which are spread throughout the Midwest. I had been urged to eat at the Shed by a local friend, who promised that I could get a "real Iowa meal" there. Another local acquaintance summed up the Shed with the phrase, "farmer food." The West Des Moines Shed sits on the grounds of the Iowa Living History Museum, where visitors can get close looks at genuine farm equipment and witness authentic farming techniques in action. It's a perfect illustration of "before" and "after." At the museum, you get to see how crops and animals are raised; at the Shed, you get to enjoy the same crops and animals at their mature mouth-watering best.

The inside of the Shed resembles a cavernous barn. There are separate dining rooms in every direction, with the Shed's enormous gift shop serving as the central hub. Everything is made of wood, seeemingly, from the chairs to the tables to the rafters. The walls are covered with John Deere paraphernalia and quaint depictions of farm living. Servers at the Shed roam the premises clad in overalls, gingham shirts (to match the tablecloths), and John Deere caps. In spite of the mammoth size of the operation, the down-to-earth homespun vibe that they weave feels nevertheless organic. The smells of the food are nearly overwhelming: the aromas of freshly roasted turkey, sizzling steaks, baked pork chops, and fresh sage dressing (what many people refer to as stuffing) embrace you and draw you in.

The food proved to be worthy and appropriate to its setting. My double pork chop was stuffed silly with an apple/raisin dressing and basted with an apple/whiskey glaze. On the side, I had a baked potato with all the fixings. Mike, my dining partner and host for the day, ordered a steak. Feeling my abdomen push against my belt buckle with virtually every satisfying bite, I chose not to force myself to complete the meal in one sitting. Conceding defeat, I had them wrap the half of my dinner that I failed to eat. The real tragedy was that I had no room to sample their signature dessert, the "famous" apple dumplilng. Next time I will be sure to pace myself accordingly.

My local friend who originally recommended the Shed to me told me that he eats there at least once a month. After going there myself, I think I understand the Shed's appeal. The food is good, sure, but there's something stronger - something intangible - that gives a place like the Shed its warmth. What makes the Shed so endearing is the fact that it is a perfect reflection of the greatest Iowan traits: it is straightforward, unpretentious, and perhaps above all else, hospitable.

Posted: Sun - March 20, 2005 at 04:30 PM      

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