In April, my wife and I ran into Ann at a retirement
party. Ann and I had both started our
careers as rookie Customs Inspectors in 1971.
As we caught up on what was happening in our
lives, I mentioned this bike trip. I said
that the route would take us through Ludington where
Ann has a second house. She said something
about calling when we were in the
area.
While working on the route and
itinerary I realized that we would
pass through Ludington around the Fourth of
July. Since camping or other accommodations
might be difficult to come by, I sent Ann an email in
an effort to be invited to pitch our tents in
her backyard. The response was positive and
we were offered the guest bedroom.
On
July 3 we were just north of Ludington. I called Ann for
specific instructions to her house. We
rolled up about 15 minutes later to find Ann
on the porch waiting for us. As I took my helmet off,
Ann's greeting was "Nice tan lines!" She was
reacting to the unusual pattern on my bald
head caused by the helmet vents. It is always nice to
know that you have some unique
quality.
After getting cleaned up, Ann
drove us to the local laundromat. While the
clothes were going round and round, Ann gave us a quick driving
tour of Ludington. She grew up in Ludington
and was pointing out houses and buildings
that are either currently or previously owned by
various family members. I had to laugh
because Brian does the same thing as we ride
around Wyandotte.
Ann also made it a
point to show us the route out of Ludington.
We guess that she didn't want us to stay too
long.
Even though we had offered to
take her out to dinner, Ann cooked
a wonderful pork loin with sweet potatoes.
Excellent! After dinner, one of Ann's
friends stopped over for a beer. His question to us
was, "Why?" We sent Ann a copy of William
Least-Heat Moon's book "Blue Highways" in an
effort to answer that question.
As we
packed our gear in the morning, the wonderful aroma of
bacon floated through the house. Ann had
topped off her gracious hospitality with a
great breakfast.
The ride from Sebewaing continued on M-25. We
have basically been following M-25 fromPort
Huron. Following M-25 and keeping the big water on our right made
navigating the Thumb pretty easy. As we approached Bay City the traffic got
heavier and we found another road that paralleled M-25 but was much
quieter.
We found a diner just
south of theBay City State Park for coffee and
pie. Our trip became the discussion of about half of the customers. We
learned that there was a nice county park at Pinconning with camping. We
also learned that the route that we planned to take to Pinconning would not
work. The other patrons offered route suggestions and we were on our
way.
Camp was set up
atPinconning County Park early in the
afternoon. We rode back into town to log some computer time at the library
and to buy something for dinner. Getting off of the road early always makes
for a good day.
After dinner I went
exploring around the park. There was a nice boardwalk that extended about a
mile into a marsh and ended at an observation platform. While walking back
I reached into my pocket and pulled out my cell phone. As it came out of my
pocket, I heard the key to my bike lock hit the boardwalk. By the time I
turned to see where it landed, it had disappeared between the
slats.
I spent the next 20 minutes
crawling on my hands and knees looking between the boards for the key. You
know that I didn’t find it and my bike was safely locked to a tree next to
my tent.
Yeah I know I should have had
another key stashed away somewhere in my pack but I didn’t. When I
got back to camp I asked Brian how long he thought it would take me to defeat my
cable lock using my little Gerber multi-tool. Brian suggested that I use
the saw blade and cut down the tree and release my
bike.
It really wasn’t the
tree’s fault so I rejected Brian’s suggestion. As I was working
on my problem, the phone rang. Barb and I told each other about our day (at
least I told her about most of it). Since Barb and Pat would be joining us
in a couple of days, I asked her to bring the extra lock from my other
bike. That begged the embarrassing question as to why I needed and extra
lock.
Brian is a fifth grade elementary teacher and is
constantly on the lookout for interesting items to introduce to his
class. He was continually formulating questions and exercises for his
students from historical markers and geographic landmarks. One of the
questions was, “How many times did I cross the 45th
Parallel?” (The answer is four.) Each crossing was celebrated
with a picture of Brian standing in front of the sign announcing the
45th Parallel.
Shortly after
leaving the town of Leland in the Leelanau
Peninsula I was not too surprised to see Brian pointing wildly at the shoulder
of the road. I looked up to see the familiar green sign announcing our
final crossing of the parallel. I rolled to a stop and started to pull the
camera from my handlebar bag.
“Did
you see it?” Brian asked
excitedly.
“Well,
yea. It’s right behind
you.”
“No, no,
no! Not the sign. The body! The body in the
wheelbarrow!”
“What!?”
“There’s
a body in the wheelbarrow. Right back
there”
I couldn’t
understand what he was raving about and I sure didn’t see a wheelbarrow,
let alone a body.
“There’s a body back
there, really! I saw his
face”.
I looked back about 20 yards
down the road and saw the wheelbarrow with a pick and shovel and a heap of grey
in it. I suggested that we take the picture of him and the sign before we
went back to look at a load of
dirt.
If
only the FBI were as perceptive as Brian. They could have saved a lot of
money and embarrassment, let alone not having to rebuild a
barn.
There he was, in a grey
trench coat and fedora, laying face down in the wheelbarrow. There was even
a highly relevant clue to the identity of the occupant posted next to the
wheelbarrow.
Brian has complained to me that he often has a
difficult time sleeping at night. This has been evidenced by emails that
are sent at 3:00 or 4:00 A.M. I sometimes wonder if he is just making this
up and that the clock on his computer is not set properly. Even though I
normally fall asleep quite quickly, I have heard a roaring snoring noise
emanating from his tent long before I nod
off.
At Leelanau State Park we had
secured a spacious “auxiliary” camp site even though the camp ground
was officially full. After a satisfying meal including a desert of locally
grown cherries and witnessing a beautiful sunset overLake Michigan, we both
settled in to our tents. I was asleep before the last light of dusk
disappeared.
Sometime later (I
don’t know the time because I don’t bring a clock when I tour) a
noise awakened me. I unzipped the tent and saw that Brian’s bike was
lying on its side and one of his panniers was several feet from the
bike. I got out to investigate. My small bike headlight doubles
as my flashlight and was still attached to my handlebars. As I went for the
light, I caught sight of some movement to my left. Shining the light in the
direction of the movement I spotted a defiant raccoon. I yelled at the
raccoon and he retreated to tall
weeds.
Brian’s bike had been
pulled over by the raccoon tugging on his right rear pannier. He had actually
pulled the pannier off of the rack. I shined the light at my bike and
discovered that the raccoon had pulled the rain covers off of my panniers as
well.
I figured that I would solve the
problem by removing all of the panniers and relocating them under the vestibule
of my tent. With that task completed I was soon asleep
again.
I woke the second time that night
to the realization that the raccoon was into the vestibule of my tent and was
pulling the panniers out. As I emerged from the tent, my flashlight landed
on Brian’s pannier about six feet away and a rather defiant raccoon about
three feet further away. He gave me a look that said, “This is mine,
I found it – twice.”
I
stamped my feet and yelled again and the little thief retreated but not as far
as before. I decided to find my clothesline and hang the panniers out of
reach. As I strung the line between two trees, I had lost sight of the
raccoon. I swung the light towards my tent only to find that he was heading
back to my now open tent. I dropped one end of the line and ran back my
tent. The invader retreated back to the bikes but never left the
campsite. I scooped up all four panniers and finished hanging them like
laundry from the clothesline. I threw a stick at my adversary and he
wandered off as I climbed back into my sleeping
bag.
Brian’s reaction to all of
this activity was non-existent. The only thing emanating from him was the
sound of an 18 wheeler idling at a truck
stop.
When I emerged from the tent in the
morning, Brian was sitting at the picnic table making coffee. He said that
he noticed the panniers hanging from the trees. I explained my interrupted
night and his only excuse was that he “thought” he had heard
something, but thought that it was the wind in the trees and rolled over and
went back to sleep.
I should have just
put the panniers in the vestibule of his
tent.
Our experience at the Platt River Campground did
not have the successful outcome that we had come to expect after our dealings
with Michigan State Park system. We walked out of the Ranger’s office
with a list of alternate campgrounds and the prospect of 15 additional miles on
the road.
I had cell service
and called a private campground, the Betsie River Camp Site that was just off of
our route. The first response to our inquiry about the availability of a
camp site was that they were full. I explained that we were two guys on
bicycles with two small tents; the lady said that she had a place where we could
set up. I said that we would be there in about two
hours.
The ride to the camp was
uneventful. We made a stop at a supermarket inFrankfort and picked up
dinner on the deli aisle.
The
Betsie River Camp
Site is on River Road just south of Frankfort. It is right on the
Betsie Valley Trail, a 22 mile trail that runs from Frankfort to
Thompsonville.
We have often written
that meeting nice people is one of the best parts of bicycle touring. The
nice person at the center of this story is Barbara Lavely who was willing to
listen to our problem and offer up a
solution.
Yes folks, I took a thumb through my favorite book
of terms of venery to come up with this entry.
During the RALPH tour, Wes and I encountered
many interesting sights. On a pleasant country road between Standish and Au
Gres was one example. We rounded a gentle bend to see that the trees contained
a wake of vultures. We were concerned that we might be looking much worse than
how we were feeling at the time. After a few more pedal strokes down the road,
we rolled onto the point of interest for our creepy feathery friends. A raccoon
had an unfortunate meeting with a car and had obviously lost. Curiously, next
to the expired raccoon was a buzzard who shared a similar fate as the dearly
departed, with the same result.
To
the vultures was it:
A) a moral
dilemma? “Gosh, that is Cousin
Carl!” 2) a religious experience?
“I wish to be one with Cousin
Carl!” c) poetic justice?
“Dibs on Cousin Carl!”
As we rode along the Michigan shoreline we had to endure the constant squabble
of seagulls. Through the countryside we encountered many ruminations of cows.
Each campground held their own scurry of squirrels and ubiquities of sparrows.
As we rode through less populous areas we were amazed at the growing rafter of
wild turkeys. Outside of Alabaster we encountered a siege of herons. The heron
rockery held many active nests. We could see fledgling herons stretching and
exercising their new wings.
Sadly,
just west of Tawas, we encountered a large snarl of motorcycles. This
particular “rolling thunder” was loud and a little unruly. A few
did not give Wes and I much respect and even less room on the road.
Fortunately, by the time we arrived in Tawas the motorcycle storm had
passed.
I will leave it up to Wes
to tell you about the mask of raccoons we encountered on the trip.
The League of American Bicyclists and Bicycling
Magazine have awarded various communities throughout
theU.S. the title “Bicycle Friendly
Community”. Portage, MI recently won an honorable mention in this
category. Brian and I have found that the Michigan State Parks should also
earn praise for being bicycle
friendly.
The route that we chose to ride
was selected partially to take advantage of the string of Michigan State Parks
that hang around shoreline of theLower Peninsula
like a necklace. The timing of our tour also took us into the heart of the
tourist season, the Fourth of July
weekend.
We camped at Lakeport, Tawas
Point,Traverse City, Leelanau, Algonac, Holland,
and Yankee Springs State Parks. What happened at Tawas Point and Leelanau
is the story here. You see, when we arrived at the camp office we were
greeted by a sign that said, “Sorry, Camp
Full”.
We walked into the
Ranger’s office and without hesitation, the Ranger said that since we
arrived by bike to camp, they would put us on the “auxiliary
site”. At Tawas Point, this was a very nice patch of grass between
two mini-cabins. At Leelanau it was the vacant host camper site. At
both parks our tents were pitched within 30 minutes of
arriving.
We have been told that the State Parks
has a policy of accommodating cyclists and hikers who arrive at full
campgrounds. That such a policy exists and is so well known by the staff is
outstanding.
I
wish I could say nice things about the Feds. Our experience at the Platt
River Campground in the Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore was just the
opposite. We arrived on a hot afternoon and were told sorry, no
space. We brought up the State policy and received a shoulder shrug in
response. Another Ranger suggested to the Ranger talking to us that maybe
if she called so and so, something could be done. This suggestion generated
no action. When Brian asked if she was going to make the call, she said
no. We were handed a list of campgrounds in the
vicinity.
We contacted a private camp who
would accommodate us and we were back on the road. Fifteen more frustrating
miles.
Fortunately for all touring
cyclists, there are a lot more State Parks in
Michigan than Federal parks. I am proud of my
state for this
policy.
The first questions
that we are normally asked are how far and where. My first blog entry since
our return will try to answer those basic questions. That will leave Brian
and I lots of space to hang our ever so slightly embellished stories on a
framework of the basic trip. Please remember that facts are a relative
thing and can vary with the person espousing the facts. Brian and I will
have slightly different facts because he is taller and I ride a recumbent
bike. Here is a breakdown of my daily
mileage:
DAY RIDE
MILEAGE AVERAGE 6/18/2006 ALGONAC
STATE PARK
71.7
12.1 6/19/2006 LAKEPORT
STATE PARK
37.7
11.4 6/20/2006 FORESTER
COUNTY PARK
30.8
9.9 6/21/2006 LIGHTHOUSE
COUNTY PARK
30.9
13.2 6/22/2006 SEBAWAING
COUNTY PARK
52.2
10.7 6/23/2006 PINCONNING
COUNTY PARK
55.5
11.6 6/24/2006 TAWAS
POINT STATE PARK
59.7
12 6/25/2006 HARRISVILLE
51.8 10.9 6/26/2006 ALPENA
45.1 11.9 6/27/2006 ROGERS
CITY 47.8
12.5 6/28/2006
MACKINAWCITY
63.9
12.4 6/29/2006 PETOSKEY 57
11 6/30/2006 TRAVERSE
CITY STATE PARK
70.2
10.6 7/1/2006 LEELANAU
STATE PARK
44.5
11.1 7/2/2006 FRANKFORT
BETSIE RIVER CAMPSITE
74
11.1 7/3/2006 LUDINGTON (ANN'S HOUSE)
61.2 10.3 7/4/2006
WHITEHALL(LOTZ'S BOAT)
52.4
11.3 7/5/2006 HOLLAND
STATE PARK 64.7
10.9 7/6/2006 YANKEE
SPRING S STATE PARK
51.3 11
7/7/2006
MARSHALL(MOTEL)
52.8
10.8 7/8/2006 BROOKLYN
(DAD'S HOUSE) 54.2
10.9 7/9/2006 FLAT ROCK (BRIAN'S HOUSE)
71.4 13.4
The total route
mileage that I recorded was 1,200.8 miles. The overall mileage that I
recorded was 1,238 miles. The difference is because we did not count the
miles to go to a restaurant or laundry after we had reached our campsite. I
also reached a personal milestone when my recumbent turned over 10,000 miles
during the trip.
We camped 12 nights
of the 21 nights that we were on the road. The trip took 22 days but we
decided to sleep in our own beds on the last day. We stayed in motels for
the 5 days (Harrisville through Petoskey) when our wives were traveling with
us. One night was spent at a friend’s house in Ludington, one night
was spent at my parent’s house, and one night was spent on a
boat. The boat story will wait for another entry. It is way too cool
to dilute it in this article.
We had
rain on many days of the trip but we were fortunate that most of the rain
occurred after we had the tents up and before we were ready to ride. There
was only one day where we were forced to ride in the rain. Twenty-one days
of dry cycling out of twenty-two is pretty good for a trip like this. Brian
did learn a valuable lesson about putting the rain fly on his tent before going
to do laundry on our second night, but that’s another
story.
We had no
mechanical problems with the exception of flat tires. Brian had more of an
issue with this than I did. He managed to fix all seven with a smile on his
face. I, on the other hand, cursed the flat that I got because I caused it
by pulling my pump off of the valve at an angle and I ripped the valve. The
only other mechanical issue that I faced was how to unlock my bike after I had
lost the key (yet another
story).
Now
that this task is out of the way, I can write some stories and not worry about
the facts getting in the
way.
We had the chance, we thought we would give an
update from the road.
Wes and I have made it to Alpena, Michigan. We are
two days shy of rounding the top of the mitten. We both feel that we have been
very fortunate so far. The one time the sky really opened up, we were in a
restaurant eating. Other times we made it to camp before the rain started. We
did not experience the big storm of last week. The roads have been good. On
days of busy and or fast traffic we have had plenty of shoulder to use. The
state park rule about accommodating bicyclists who roll into a full camp works.
Our wives are with us for this leg of the trip. We had a great send off. We
are truly blessed on this trip, so
far.
We have discovered a little
Michigan secret. The thumb is pretty cool! It has nice scenery and nice roads.
The state parks and county parks are great. It isn't very crowded. It has been
one of many pleasant surprises of the
trip.
The last couple of days we have
ridden parts of the old Shore Line East route. Very little has really changed.
In some parts the road is a little better, others a little worse. Some of the
old eating spots are still there and still good. The two big climbs out of
Black River are still there and still
big.
We are having a great time, and do
we have the
stories!
bc
Dispatch
From the Road
We are on our way! The
most difficult aspect of this type of endeavor is
to actually get going. Our first day ended
in Algonac State Park. A great tail wind,
the excitement of embarking on the tour, and club members insuring
that we actually left town made the 71 miles
seem easier than expected. We celebrated the
end of the first day with a meal in a good restaurant.
Camp cooking would have to wait until
tomorrow.
We started out the day with
oatmeal and coffee in camp. Coffee was made
with the French Press coffee makers that
Brian bought us. These little things make a
really good cup of coffee. A perfectly good tour can be ruined by
bad coffee. That and bad food.
It is surprising to me how quickly
Brian and I have resumed the rhythm of
our trip to Maine. We have found that we get
up about the same time in the morning. It
takes us about the same amount of time to pack. We ride at
the same pace. We need to take breaks at
about the same time. What is really eerie is
that we will end up ordering the same things in a
restaurant.
We are following some of
the precedents set on our trip to Maine. We
have pledged to avoid factory food. We don't
stop at the first restaurant because there is
usually a more interesting place towards the center of town.
(We have already violated this once on the
trip and have regretted it.)
We are
making an effort to get off of the road relatively early, about 2 or
3 o'clock. This makes every thing easier.
We are not rushing to set up camp and eat
before it gets dark. It gives us plenty of time to "do the
numbers" and write in our journals.
And when we find a good bakery during the day,
it gives us a chance to have a cup of coffee
and eat the pastry that we put into our
panniers.
Obsessing? Wes has the weather covered, I get the
rest! Do I have everything? Do I know where everything is? Journal? Do I take
the iPod?
I have been pretty casual
about this trip. We know the area, have ridden most of the roads, we won't be
far from home ever, a walk in the park! So why am I so anxious? I hope it is
just pre ride jitters.
.
So here is my ride. It is freshly
painted. It has new rims (thanks Al). It has new front rack and panniers. It
has a new Brooks saddle. It has new lights and a new bell. My bike is
officially street legal for the state of Michigan.
Brian and I start off on the RALPH tour
tomorrow. The excitement of the idea also induces some anxiety. Are we
ready? Am I ready? Why didn’t I loose that extra ten pounds like
Brian did? Will the weather hold for our first day on the
road?
Yesterday Brian and I took our
final 20 mile training ride. I had the bike fully loaded. The bike
handles well with the load. The low center of gravity because of the under
seat panniers makes it very stable. My ability to accelerate quickly is
diminished but once the bike is rolling, it wants to keep
rolling.
My panniers weighed in at 15 and
16 pounds. The tent and Therma-Rest pad (4 and 2 pounds respectfully) are tied
to the top of the rear rack.
My
normal rack trunk has been replaced with two small panniers on the
rack. These are mostly empty except for my spare tubes, a couple of plastic
garbage bags, maps, and journal book. The plan is to use this space for
groceries when we shop for our evening meal. My camera is in the handlebar
bag. I have slightly expanded my spare parts and tool inventory on the bike
for the
trip.
Overall,
I have approximately 40 pounds of extra gear on the bike. That is about 5
pounds less than on our trip toMaine. Since I
have about 10 more pounds on me compared to the Maine trip, the result is a net
gain of 5 pounds. The first few days of riding should help remove the
difference.
Several DCC members including
my daughter Erin have said that they will escort us out of town
tomorrow. We are not certain if this is friendly gesture or if the peasants
are storming the castle.
I’m
ready. I’m ready. Now if I could just stop obsessing about the
weather
report.
The weather is getting better and better for
riding. Brian and I are getting serious about putting some miles into our
legs before starting on RALPH. A couple of weeks ago we hosted a 50 mile
club ride in order to try out a new diner. This week we took advantage of
Brian’s Easter break from school to get a 45 mile ride in. Of course,
we did test a restaurant as part of the
ride.
Brian was on his new/old bike for
this ride. His trusty Trek has been repainted and carefully reassembled by
Al Petri. There is a new Brooks saddle
mounted on his bike and apparently new wheels will soon be part of the
package. A new cycle computer/heart rate monitor was beeping like crazy
throughout the ride.
Clearly this
up-grade to his ride has made Brian a much faster rider. He was
consistently out in front and seemed to do much better then me as we rode home
into the wind. I don’t think that it has anything to do with all the
weight he lost on his very successful winter diet. Or that he spent hours
on his trainer and at the gym. It is a well know fact that new stuff will
make you faster.
A few days ago I was
rereading some of the blog entries we made two years ago as we prepared for our
trip toMaine. In those entries we obsessed
about all kinds of details. We were trying figure out what type of cooking
equipment and clothing would be needed. We both spent hours studying the
Adventure Cycling maps and worrying about climbing the White and Green
Mountains. We discussed strategies for locating camping or motels for the
night.
What a difference our
Maine trip has made! Over lunch I mentioned
that we were not exhibiting the same kind of anxiety about the RALPH
tour. We are about two months from the start of our trip. We have a
rough draft of our route. We have a short list of specific places to see
and things to do on the trip. We each have some ideas for small changes to
our packing lists and the way we will carry things on the
bike. Neither of us seems particularly concerned about having so many
issues up in the air.
We have nailed down
our departure date, Sunday June 18. We will be carrying the new French
press coffee makers the Brian got us. That’s enough planning for
now.
My riding buddy is putting me through the computer
loops on this one - hope it all works ....
What’s In a
Name?
My pal Brian has stated that he is
changing the basis for our F.R.O.G. acronym. He wants to substitute
“fit” for “fat” so that Fat Riding Old Guy becomes Fit
Riding Old Guy. I have no problem with that change. In fact, I am
quite willing to allow you, dear reader, to insert whatever “F” word
you deem appropriate. (I was thinking “fortunate”,
“friendly”, “foolish”, etc. for those of you who were
going in another direction.)
What is
important to me is that the acronym be preserved as FROG. During a long
career as a government bureaucrat, I learned that the success of an endeavor is
often determined by the quality of the acronym. The FROG name has
worked well and has come to symbolize an attitude about riding that could be
summed up in the phrase on a shirt given to me by Brian at the end of our trip
to Maine:
the journey is the
destination. The FROG name also
conjures up a nice visual that we can play
with.
I would like to introduce the new
FROG logo. My wife Barbara had this image created by a graphic artist and
gave it to me as a 31st wedding anniversary gift. (Isn’t
that just too cool!) This logo is based on actual unretouched photos from
the Maine
trip.
Any project that has two good
acronyms and a cool logo is destined for
success.
Wes
PS. The
visual suggested by RALPH isn’t as good as FROG. I don’t think
that I would care to see a picture of Two FROGS
RALPHing.
It's time for a change, I am tired
of the same old
same. The same old
words, the same old
lines, The same old
tricks, the same old
rhymes.
Boats to
Build Guy
Clark It is an easy joke that gets an easy
laugh. If I meet someone new and want to put a smile on their face, I tell them
that, "I am part of an elite cycling team called FROGs, Fat Riding Old Guys."
It makes them smile. It works. I am not good at small talk and it gives me a
starting point for conversation. From there I can tell them about my biking
adventures. I can tell them about where I have been and where I hope to go.
The joke gives me an easy way to chat with people. Like I said, it
works.
Maybe it works too well. I
think of myself as being fat. I am, I know. I have been overweight most of my
life. Being fat is such a part of me. I want to be rid of that part. I want
to stop looking at pictures of myself and thinking "God, look how thick I am!"
I want to be able to look in a mirror and not get grossed out. I want my
clothes to fit. I want to stop thinking of myself as being
fat.
The Downriver Cycling Club
currently has a fitness challenge among its members. Members of the club have
weighed themselves. They have stepped on a scale that measures body fat. At
the end of this challenge, we will re-weigh our selves, re-measure our body fat,
see how much power out put we can generate on a fitness bike at a local gym, and
finally race against each other on a Schwinn Velodyne. The winner will get some
obscure prize to be determined
later.
I have thrown myself into this
challenge. I have rejoined Weight Watchers. I am dutifully counting my points
and journaling everything I eat. I set my bicycle on an indoor trainer and spin
each morning. I am back at the YMCA lifting weights. I am pushing myself like
I have never done before. I do not want to win the obscure prize. The prize,
what ever it will be, is not the motivation behind all of this blood, sweat, and
tears. I no longer want to think of myself as fat. I want to think of myself
as FIT!