Asatour '06 Venerable Frickin' Bede!
So as I mentioned in my last entry, I made it to
Durham after many fairly mild misadventures, and am now settled into the castle.
Across the green from the castle is Durham cathedral.
Even after all the hardships I endured
on the way here, I arrived too early for the conference registration. I was
able to check into my room, however, and after climbing up many flights of
stairs to room 36, I dropped my bags, picked up my camera, and headed to the
Cathedral.
(I'm going to be blatantly
honest here. I've now visited the Cathedral twice, as it was also a conference
trip today. The descriptions ahead are from both of those visits, rather than
just from my initial visit.)
The
cathedral was apparently built somewhere around 1067, as was the castle. While
photo-taking was not allowed inside it, I do have some photos from outside.
When I first arrived at the cathedral, I turned left and headed into a small
chapel. A square granite (?) tomb sat to my right, and I wandered over. Yep,
practically the first thing I looked at inside the cathedral was the tomb of the
Venerable Bede, the man who changed the way history is recorded (He did indeed
change history). I was so amazed at this; I didn't realize he was buried here,
and I've had a ton of respect for the work he did ever since I learned of him in
high school history class. I literally thought, "Oh my gods! It's the
Venerable Frickin' Bede!"
A robed lady
(I have no idea what you call the people who work in an Anglican cathedral)
informed me that at one point they were going to knock that small chapel down,
in order to have a new main entrance to the cathedral. The plan was changed,
luckily. Of course, if Bede were buried there at that time, they would have
just moved him.
Later, I visited the
shrine to St. Cuthbert, who was the head of the Society of St. Cuthbert, and
spent most of his life doing holy work on Lindisfarne. He died, if I'm recalling
at all correctly, in the late 800's, so he wasn't originally buried inside the
cathedral, but they transplanted him inside, where he is now buried with the
head of St. Oswald, who lost it while fighting the heathen. I have to admit to
feeling a little uncomfortable in that shrine after reading that, but apparently
St. Oswald's head had no issue with my presence, since there were no draugr
manifestations.
In the cathedral
library, the staff had put out some of their ancient manuscripts, to be viewed
by the conference attendees. They were beautiful, untouchable, and mostly
uninteresting to me because they were... well, they were Christian texts. Yawn.
A couple of nights later I was able to view some incunabula in the University
library, and these were much more interesting to me -- I was able to peruse a
copy of the Saemunder Edda published in 1781! It was amazing.
Also in the Cathedral library, in the
section that was once the monks' dormitory, was a selection of artifacts that
had been collected there -- stonework like gravestones, as a majority, and some
old wooden coffins that had been burned from logs like Native American dugout
canoes. There were Viking gravestones of the hogback variety, slightly swayed
up in the center, but not so much as a modern round-topped gravestone. At
either end were carved the figures of bears, and some of them had very clear
muzzles on their muzzles. There are some obvious possible implications there,
but I don't know exactly why they were
muzzled.
I'm going to wrap this article
up now. I've pretty much gone over the cathedral for you. Until next time!
Posted: Wed - August 9, 2006 at 09:28 PM
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