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April 2007
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My Book of the Week:
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Sew What Skirts by Francesca DenHartog
What I'm Currently Reading:
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Mr Darcy's Daughters by by Elizabeth Aston


Textile Word of the Week: Ikat - a style of weaving that uses a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft before the threads are woven to create a pattern or design. A Double Ikat is when both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving.












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Home » Archives » April 2007 » Tutorial: Bias Tape is a skirt's best friend

[Previous entry: "strawberries skirt"] [Next entry: "how we spent the weekend"]

04/25/2007: "Tutorial: Bias Tape is a skirt's best friend"


I like to use bias tape to hem skirts, especially those with a round edge like most a-line designs. Turning and stiching a round edge is kind of a pain, but bias tape is a tiny bit stretchy and likes to curve, so it makes hems a breeze. The only draw back is that it does only come in certain colors. I usually try to match the fabric I am working with, but there's no reason not to mix and match. You can also make your own bias tape to match the fabric, but that's a whole other tutorial.

There are two kids of bias tape - Single Fold and Double Fold. We will start with single fold.
_IGP0965 (104k image)

Cut a piece of bias tape that is long enough to go all the way around. Lay your skirt pretty side up. Open out one side of the fold slightly and lay the bias tape fold side up, matching that opened out edge to the edge of your skirt. Then stitch in the fold all the way around. Over lap a bit when you get to the ends. You can fold it over to finish it, I usually just cut it at a bit of a diagonal and trust it not to fray too much.

Here's the finished stitching. Now go to the iron.
First put it right side up and press it out. Be sure to keep that folded edge in tact - don't open out the bias tape completely. Then flip it over and fold it up on your stitching line.


Now back to the sewing machine. Stitch again close to the folded edge of the bias tape.


It should look like this when you are done and ....

...Like this when you look at the right side. Now if you want to get fancy, you can also add a little trim. My strawberry skirt has yellow ric-rac on the bottom edge.



Now Double Fold Bias Tape. If you look closely at double fold bias tape, it has one edge that is just a bit longer than the other. Those smart bias tape people do this to make it easy to sew. Using this method, the bias tape shows as a little strip of trim at the bottom, so think about that as you choose your color.

Put the long edge under the edge of your skirt and push the cut edge of the skirt right into that fold.

Then stitch close to that folded edge. Same comment about when you get to the ends - overlap a bit, finish them however you'd like.


On this skirt, I did a Double Fold Bias Tape edge and then added another piece of bias tape just stitched on a couple of inches higher.

Replies: 8 Comments


on Wednesday, April 25th, mom said

Grandpa Bob would be so pleased to see that a daughter of mine knows about hems! Wish he used internet so I could prove that I at least produced a hemmer, even if he claims that I never hemmed anything! Which is a family myth, not the truth... smile


on Saturday, April 28th, Leah Adams said

Great tutorial! I'm about to get started on my first skirt. I'll be sure to come back.


on Sunday, April 29th, JM said

'doh'

Neat. You know, after sewing for years, I've been using singlefold tape for completely different project, dreading the skirt hem. Thanks. satisfied


on Tuesday, May 1st, Kara said

Bless you! I hate, hate, hate hemming skirts. But this is such a simple solution! Now if you could only share an easier way of measuring out a straight hem, my world would be perfect! sleepy
Saw the link on whipup.net


on Tuesday, May 1st, becka said

i usually just go right along and pretend that it's straight whether or not it really is. (i have had a few interesting hems this way.)


on Monday, May 7th, dottie said

thanks for your tutorial...really helpful. i've been struggling with bias tape for a couple days after trying to recreate a 1940's wrap apron from my great grandmother! thanks for helping.


on Saturday, May 26th, patricia said

i have a vertical type yardstick thingy which something on it which moves up and down the measurements. i think it's a vintage skirt hem measurer, but it may not have all of its parts. does anyone know what it is really called and where i can see one with all of its parts?


on Friday, June 1st, natasha said

i got the sew what! skirts book as a super duper newby in sewing and i told a friend about the double fold bias tape and she oohed and ahhhed. smart!