Participants: Andrew, Gwen
Dates: 2004-05-17 to 2004-05-19
Level of difficulty: Moderate
Total portages: 4670m
Gwen and I took this trip during one of her visits to Canada to see me. I had never made a trip through the Barron Canyon, and several people I know have recommended this route to me. We had originally planned for a four day trip, but adjusted it to a three day trip while we were out there.
Monday, May 17, 2004 - St. Catharines to Algonquin Access Point 22, Grand Lake, Carcajou Bay
Portages:
none
Total for today: 0m
It is a bloody long drive from St. Catharines to the East side of the park near Renfrew. It winds up taking us most of the day to make this trip because of traffic in the Toronto area and the total distance involved.
We have a canoe booked at Algonquin Portage. We pick up the boat as quickly as possible from the outfitter, sign all of the papers, and make our way to Achray Campground and access point 22. We make the requisite stop at the Sand Lake Gate to pick up our permit first. Along our way into the park, we also spot a moose standing in a marsh enjoying some of the plants for a meal. We stop for some pictures as Gwen has never seen a moose before, and then make our way into the park.
When we arrive at Grand Lake, it is about 4pm. As we are putting in, we find another family coming out. They tell us that the bugs are bad and wish us a good trip. We have arranged a transfer of the car to the Squirrel Rapids parking lot to be done by the outfitter so the car won't be here for too long.
As we are putting our canoe into the water, we are visited by one of the water snakes that is common in the eastern regions of the park. Unfortunately, the snake disappears before we are able to get any pictures.
Today is a windy day, with a strong wind coming from the west. There is considerable wave action on Grand Lake, with a few white caps, and enough wind to make paddling difficult. We paddle directly across Grand Lake into Carcajou Bay. After we round the bend, we find a good campsite with a great southern exposure (the southern-most of the two sites on the east shore of the lake). We haven't seen a soul since we left the dock, and that is just fine. The one blessing of the wind is that it is keeping the bugs off. It is challenging to set the tent up as the wind threatens to blow it away a few times, but careful use of rocks to hold down the guy wires means that the tent will stay up for the night.
We also spot another water snake around the campsite, but it again moves on too quickly for us to get pictures.
After dinner, we make a small fire, and enjoy a relatively bug free evening, despite what the family we met has told us. We sleep well knowing that we have a day of lake canoeing ahead tomorrow.
Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - Carcajou Bay to High Falls Lake
Portages:
1. Grand Lake to Stratton Lake - 30m
2. Statton Lake to St Andrews Lake - 45m
3. St Andrews Lake to High Falls Lake - 550m
Total for today: 625m
Rain! It isn't raining when we wake up, but by the time we finish our breakfast, it starts to drizzle. As we are taking down the tent, it really opens up and just as we finish getting the tent down, the thunder and heavy rain begins. We wait it out in the relative shelter of the forest (not wise with lightning, I know) and when the thunder and lightning has moved on, and the rain subsides, we get into the boat, and make our way to our next campsite.
The portages are pretty muddy because of the rain, and the early part of the year we are traveling during. The first two portages are pretty easy to traverse with their short distances. We make a couple of trips with our gear, and are across pretty quickly. We have brought the canoe, one large backpack and a large blue food barrel. So, not too much excess fortunately. The last portage is also relatively straight forward until the very end. Because there are a number of water falls in this area, the elevation changes quite quickly, and there is a short and steep descent down to the put in point on High Falls Lake. Careful footing is require in the wet and slippery conditions, but we make it safely.
We still haven't seen anyone else out in the park during our trip, and have the choice of the three spots available on High Falls Lake. We only manage to find two campsites however, and choose the site nearer to the portage we just finished. It is a bit swampy in the area, but there is a nice spot for the tent at the top of a small rise, and a good fire pit at water level. We put up the tent, hang up our stuff that needs to try, and Gwen grabs a nap. I spend some time trying to persuade some wood to burn, until Gwen suggests that I collect the birch bark off the fallen trees. This burns remarkably well, and we manage to get a solid fire going to warm up and dry off next to before dinner. We enjoy the fire for a while, but I have forgotten supplies to make Smores, so turn in before it gets too cold that evening.
Between the heavy rains in the morning, and the smoke of the fire in the evening, we keep away from the bugs all day. Definitely a positive thing for a trip at this time of year.
Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - High Falls Lake to Squirrel Rapids, Ottawa
Portages:
1. High Falls Lake to Barron River - 530m
2. Barron River to Barron River - 15m
3. Barron River to Ooze Lake - 285m (ran the rapids instead)
4. Ooze Lake to Barron River (The Cascades) - 345m
5. Barron River (The Cascades) to Barron River - 155m (cut short)
6. Brigham Lake to Brigham Chute - 100m
7. Brigham Chute to Barron River - 440m
8. Barron River to Barron River - 420m
Total for today: 2005m (2290m planned)
After the cold and rainy day that we had yesterday, today dawns bright and sunny fortunately. Unfortunately, the lack of wind, and comfortable temperatures in the morning mean that the bugs are fierce. We both have long clothes on, our hats, and our bug nets just to be able to prepare and eat breakfast. The one good thing about the bugs is that we aren't tempted to hang around at the campsite for long. We pack up quickly, and get out onto the water. It takes some time before the bugs give up on us, so the nets and sleeves stay on until the first portage.
None of the portaging today is especially nasty. We get to the third portage of the day, take a look at the relatively flat water (concealing rocks below of course) and decide that we will run the rapids. The next portage however, starts with a major waterfall, so running it is not an option, and we wisely take that portage. We are also able to shortcut the fifth portage. There is also a route up to the road at this point, but our car is further down the river, so we press on. We are able to cut it short by running through a small section of faster water near the end of the portage.
At the Barron Canyon, we find ourselves at the bottom of some 100m cliffs. The canyon is quite impressive, and we see many birds flying through this area with us. We also see the first other people of the trip. There is a group of people using the Barron Canyon Trail at the top of the cliffs as we pass through. However, during the trip, we see no other people canoeing in the park.
We stop below the canyon at one of the campsites for lunch. Here we have the choice of either staying the night, or pressing on out of the park and down to my friend's house in Ottawa where we are visiting for the rest of the week. My brother has done this route before, and he told me that it was only about one hour from these campsites to the parking lot. We opt to press on, and in the end, it is a good decision because it is a very short trip from the campsites below the canyon to the Squirrel Rapids parking lot. We arrive there, load up the car, relax some and enjoy the sun for a while before we hop into the car and drive on to Ottawa.
Although the bugs were ferocious in the morning at breakfast, the sun is out, and the day rapidly becomes warm enough that the bugs stay off for the remainder of the day. So, other than one miserable breakfast, we have been fortunate to enjoy a bug free trip and wind up very free of insect bites.
As well, other than the moose and the water snakes that we have seen on the first day, the only other wildlife we have seen during the trip has been the birds.
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